How To Paint A Wooden Boat

 

One of the great mysteries of the increasingly modern shipbuilding today is the amount of hi-tech gobble-de-gook that is expected to average home boat builder to go when it comes to paint the boat after the awful lot of sanding, fairing and the work is (almost) over and the fruits of your labor now require a deep, lustrous shine that painting now promises to do. This part, in my opinion at least, is one of the best parts of shipbuilding, the goal! (Well, at least the beginning of the end!)

Painting a boat used to be a fairly simple task. It was a day quite well, dry brush a dad, a little turpentine, a roll of duct tape, a bit of pink primer left decoration and a half gallon of shiny blue enamel paint from the local hardware ... were the days!

Today is not, my friends! The unsuspecting boat builder who toddles off to the local chandlery or supermarket better be prepared for the worst-not only will he (or she) face a huge financial onslaught on their wallet but a mind-boggling array Genius Mind Balderdash high tech wow the (generally) uninformed shop dependent proceed to throw in their general direction in the faint hope that you will give in under the stress and buy several liters of porridge last polurethanicalslitheryaminomolecular just entering. for example, you'll be faced with trade names like 'Interlux Interthane coating. "I mean, come on, it sounds like a new space invaders game! This is bloody paint! There are many others, but I'm sure you have an idea of what I say.

Another example of this kind of thing that drives me nuts is that you can expect to buy several liters of a package of two iso-cyanate marine polyurethane paint only to be cheerfully told its illegal to spray it unless you authorized property, property drone drone !! I guess they have to make new names to go with the new policies of the painting company to charge $ 150 per liter for some of these new fangled paints! What the hell have they discovered that's so expensive to put in these things? I was under the impression that paint was a few liters of linseed oil, turpentine, some drying agents and a few ounces of pigments for color ... can I really be that out of touch?

BACK TO BASICS

So why do we paint wooden boats? Or any other boat for that matter? The first part of this question is easy. Boats look much smarter and better if they shine and gleam a bit ... it is after all human. The second part of this question is: We want to protect. Well, what? Well, wood rots if it is not stopped, right? - Wrong! Wood left to its own devices does not rot. The wood does not rot due to their environment. There are several cases of how, plain untreated wood can last for centuries as long as it is in the right environment. There are basically only a few elements that start wood decay. Biological attack spores, fungi, temperature, high humidity or total absorption, borers and crustaceans that allow penetration of all other marine elements aforementioned physical attack.

Do not forget that polluted waters can degrade timber to the point where it will rot .... we'll add chemical attack to that list too. So, given all these very compelling reasons we protect our boat by painting layer completely against these attacks.

PREPARATION OF WOOD

The actual preparation of timber can cover a range of different needs. If the boat is new construction, you will not have to go through many stages of preparatory old boat may have to go. With some forms of shipbuilding, where a ship has been built by a different method, such as side tables or cold molding, we paint the boat as if it were a fiberglass boat, due to any of the outer layers fiberglass or wooden timber was covered with epoxy not allow traditional paints adhere properly. However, if we want to protect the bare wood and then use a different approach. Drink naturally naked state has millions of thin, hollow tubes therethrough, made ​​of cellulose in its natural form. These tubes must be sealed to prevent ingress of water into the. Therefore, the first timber and seal.

The first thing to do is to clean and remove peeling paint and flaking or damaged and dirt that remains on the hull - sounds easy if you say it fast, but it must be done! If necessary (and most times it is) degrease the hull using a proprietary paint degreaser after removing all dust preferably with a vacuum cleaner. Remember that it is not absolutely necessary to get all the wood deck bare back just dry, clean, grease and dust.

FILLING AND FAULTS

Obviously, not many wooden boats are perfect on the outside. There are many blemishes, cracks, imperfections and splits both large and small to deal with the sand filling and closing before starting the boat. It is a bit of a chore but time spent here will reward you with a boat that definitely look better, longer life. Some people fill these holes and imperfections in timber with epoxy filler but it is not a good idea. Sometime later, for example, when the ship for repairs, which will be the devil of a job to remove the resin fixing a hole ships. It is best to use some type of load fast wood and dries hard right, but it's never so difficult that can not be removed later. For example, the glazing compound is a painter hard adjustment smooth paste can then be applied satisfactorily sanded and painted quickly. Carvel boats usually have their fair filled with a special compound after the ship began to sew the seams. Once the boat has been filled and faired smooth and all dust removed we are ready to put some paint, otherwise. Remember, the difference between a professional paint job and an amateur is the Preparation!

wood preservation

There are two schools of thought about treating bare timber with wood preservatives. I've heard stories that primers and paints do not adhere to many of them. In my case, I personally have never had that happen to me, I'm usually in favor of its use. However, I am convinced that in many cases where the paint refuses to stick to the wood because the wood has not dried properly after. There is a defined percentage of humidity that each timber has (and slightly different) where paint of any type not only adhere. It can be up to fifteen per cent in some woods. Most importantly, make sure your wood is dry enough to paint or filler to join. Remember too that salt deposits on timber will readily contain water and keep it damp .... if your boat is in salt water rinse with fresh water before you start painting. If and only if your timber preservative is dry, the next step is:

PRIMARY

The first coat of primer to go on your hull is metallic gray primer. It is a good introduction to use because it consists of millions of flat metal (aluminum) microscopic plaques found at the top of each other giving water a very hard time to pass though it ... Pink primer for example, has circular molecules of substances that allow water infiltration ... done a lot faster! Grey primers also contain certain oils and most have anti-mold agents contained in biocidal products (you and I) We put two coats of gray primer above the waterline and three, no less, below.

Other observations ABOUT PRIMARY

There is a whole world of paint primers out there and confusion about their qualities are very common. To dry wood basis, the gray metal primers are good, as described above. Caps are also many known oil companies are also very good base and will do very well. Hi-build primers however must be approached with caution and I must say that I personally have never been too good to them. Most of them contain Titanium Dioxide (that's talcum powder to us lot) and even when fully healed can absorb large amounts of moisture that can prevent really good paint adhesion. To avoid this, only the hi-construction primer good clear paint dry days and avoid excessive levels of atmospheric moisture. Then, as soon as possible, apply the top coat to seal. Also note that the hi-employed primers are a soft type of paint and can suffer badly from scratches on the stone or pebble beaches and even when launching boat trailers. When sanding these primers remember that huge clouds of white dust are released so be careful where sand and wear appropriate safety masks.

FINISH

Again, there are many types to choose from. Let two packages of the way first. TWO PIECES POLIURETANOS applied first to any two-component epoxy primer. They have a fantastic finish and that's fine, but be absolutely sure that the timber underneath is not going to move because the paint cures so hard that it can and (strip plankers and cold molded boats cracks are your best bet here ... apart of course from glass boats). The main reason is that timber constructed boats move or 'work' as it is called. You may well get away with it if your timber boat has been glassed from new .... not glassed over later as a preventative method to stop leaks. Rarely boats treated thus dry out properly and are still susceptible to movement as the timber inside the glass either rots because it was wet or dry too much and shrinks. Also boats that have been chined properly, that is, strips of wood stuck between the planks instead of being repressed, have a reasonable chance of not moving.

Ok, what else? A pack polyurethane paints or individual packages can be a good choice for a coat ... they are almost as bright and as durable as the two packs but not quite! They are less expensive and easier to implement than the two packages ... there are plenty of them out there, so it takes a little research, plus your own personal choice ... I will not engage in an exchange of insults about who are the best! However, remember the products of most major paint manufacturers known are usually great! It's your call!

So next on my list are marine enamels. Again, it is worth remembering that anything with the Marina in front of it is usually expensive ... a good place to avoid in this quest is the large hardware chain stores that sport one or two paints in this category and I fell in love myself before now. This is the name we are looking for!

Even with decent quality marine enamels some of the whites have been known to yellow with age and the trick is to buy a broken white colors such as cream or beige. My last choice in Marine enamels proper, is a relative newcomer ... a glaze water based. Personally, I've never used it, but I've heard good reports and there has to be some advantages with them, quick cleanup for one and you can even take blood thinners!

CHOICES
There are a few types of paint systems that are different from the above, and as usual, likely to attract much criticism from those types that love writing to the editor for one reason or another. Mainly I think because something is not quite conventional. Each of these paints have different uses and attributes.

PAINT ENAMEL HOUSE

Over the years, the quality of enamel paint of the house has increased dramatically to the point that many sailors I know paint their boats with it. It is a little softer (and definitely cheaper) than most polyurethanes and packaging of individual colors, especially dark colors tend to fade earlier than others. However, the fact is that they can be an excellent choice, especially if you own a small boat and do not mind repainting every two years .... cheap to buy, easy to apply!

WATER-BASED ACRYLIC

A few years ago, you would not have dreamed of painting your boat with acrylic paint .... would have taken off in large flocks. This does not apply today however. My own boat, Nicky J has been painted with semi-gloss acrylic WATTYL "Cane" and it's really amazing. I had the usual gloss for the hull and semi-gloss for the decks over white epoxy primer single pack and it was very good. Not once, even seemed delamination. I paint the boat once a year with a roller and it takes less than a day ... and she is forty two meters long! It is another option!

Well, there's your main paint choices but I urge you to remember one thing ... preparation is King ... it will save a lot of money in the long run, of course.

REQUESTING YOUR PAINTING

There are, of course, the three main methods of applying your paints; Spraying, brushing and Rollering. Another is that many people use a combination of these last two, rolling and deposit, we will address later.

Let's look to the spray. There are several prerequisites for a decent spray job. These usually are a decent workshop with suction fans and half decent ventilation using good spray equipment (cheapo low power stuff just does not cut the mustard) and most importantly, proper equipment and proper safety. There are always exceptions to the rule and there is a guy who works in Edge starts at the time and did a fantastic job ... imagine how it could be better if it worked in !! You also have to watch the weather, high humidity is not good and also where the spray goes ... not in someone's car as is often the case! A great excess paint is lost and wasted in the process. If you have to drive for you boat to look like your car then sprayings for you! Oh, yeah, it quick (ish) too!

Brushing by hand can yield incredible results if you are patient and also know what you are doing. I've seen boats that at first glance appear to have been sprayed only to find that they were hand painted by brush ....... Dust free atmosphere and bloody good brushes (I mean expensive) are an absolute must here.

Finally, especially Rollering method 'roll and tip'. This requires two people working together as a team. This thin layer is painted wheel and the other follows closely with a decent brush and bubbles 'tips' left by the roller - unbelievably good finishes can be obtained by this method.

A word of warning, no matter which method you use. Do not be tempted to touch up paint drops or you will ruin the finish .... wait until the paint is completely dry, and then deal with it! It's tempting but paint always seems to curdle faster than you think!

executive Summary

There are many facets to the successful painting of a boat. We can not be good at everything and must choose the most appropriate method for you own particular capabilities. Much depends on the services available to you. Some people have the garden to work in others may have huge sheds and even access to a warehouse! I would say that some basic rules apply to painting even the smallest boat. Often, too much, too clever or too sophisticated is often detrimental to what you are trying to achieve.

I've seen boats that cost twenty great painting and were very average ... why? Wrong choice of painter, that's why. If you choose a painter, not a crime to ask him to show some examples of their work. If it's good, it should be enough ... there are a lot of opportunists and jeans on, you can be sure. All boats, all of them have to touch or even a painting within years. How long do you get for your money is the trick. Unless you put your freshly painted in a museum or garage and lock the junk boat, you can bet that from day one, nicks, dings, scratches and scars is collected, it is inevitable. Beware the painter who tells you, "Yes, there will be ten thousand, but it will last longer than you and I." The need for repainting is directly proportional to how far the boat is on. years. The only way to keep your boat pristine and perfect is never actually put into this dirty old water once it's done! Be realistic about your abilities and your expectations. Simple may be better in many cases.

A simple formula to calculate the amount of paint needed (FOR ONE COAT)

What is interesting if not exactly correct! But there are actually very similar. This is applicable to brushing and rolling not spray. There is a different formula for this and I do not know!
FORMULA
ONE COAT = total beam length x 0.85 x vessel
Divided by square feet covered by the list of instructions on the can paint liters.

If you can not solve the paint manufacturer will tell you if you call our service center.

Over the years, wooden boats have survived the elements in spite of very crude and primitive forms of paint. Many boats were simply smeared first pitch, bitumen, turpentine and beeswax. An early Thames barge had survived for over a hundred years in perfect condition as it was originally used as a bitumen tanker !! The glossy dark brown was the most perfect of preserved wood that I have never seen such. One of the most interesting I've seen boats was painted with fence paint ... the owner and had never painted only once in thirty years! Another old boat builder I knew once told me the secret of painting a wooden boat was painted with many layers of paint you can afford!